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A personal account of traditional flavors, modern luxury, and unexpected discoveries by Linda Singh
My journey began in Tokyo's prestigious Ginza district at the historic Daimaru Department Store, a 300-year-old institution. The entire floor dedicated to confectionery was a feast for the eyes, with endless counters of exquisite Japanese sweets. The longest queue? KAMAKURA Beniya's renowned walnut treats – a preview of the delicacies to come.
Lunch brought us to Tsukiji for pristine sushi, followed by a cultural deep-dive into the art of Furoshiki (traditional Japanese wrapping) – where I discovered potential designs for our Mother's Day collection. The day concluded with a traditional Sukiyaki dinner after exploring the vibrant streets of Asakusa and its iconic Senso-ji temple. A traditional Sukiyaki restaurant offers premium Japanese beef slowly cooked tableside in a sweet-savory soy broth with fresh vegetables and local eggs for dipping.
The Shinkansen whisked us to Osaka, where we enjoyed a simple yet perfect salmon onigiri (rice ball) during the journey and wonderful views of Mt. Fuji from the bullet train (200 mph).
Lunch featured Kushikatsu, which is a Japanese dish of deep-fried skewered meat and vegetables, originating from Osaka. "Kushi" (串) means skewer, and "katsu" (カツ) refers to the breading and deep-frying method. Kushikatsu is considered one of the city's signature dishes, alongside takoyaki and okonomiyaki.
After our satisfying Kushikatsu lunch in Osaka, we visited the magnificent Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺), famously known as the Golden Temple. This Zen temple lives up to its name - its top two floors are completely covered in real gold leaf, creating a stunning reflection in the surrounding mirror pond. Originally built in 1397 as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, each floor represents a different style of architecture: Shinden, Samurai, and Zen.
The temple's official name is Rokuon-ji, but it's universally known as Kinkaku-ji (literally "Temple of the Golden Pavilion") due to its striking appearance. The gold leaf covering isn't merely decorative - it's believed to purify negative thoughts and feelings toward death. On sunny days, the temple casts a shimmering reflection on the peaceful pond surrounded by a meticulously maintained Japanese stroll garden.
The sight is particularly breathtaking during different times of day:
Dinner transported us to the traditional Pontocho district, one of Kyoto's most atmospheric and historic geisha districts (hanamachi), a narrow alley running parallel to the Kamo River. Dating back to the 16th century, it's one of the most well-preserved traditional entertainment districts in Kyoto. We experienced Yuzu Hot Pot while seated on tatami mats, ending with riverside cocktails. Pontocho Yuzu Hot Pot is situated along the historic alley with river views. Traditional tatami seating, featuring their signature yuzu-infused broth and seasonal ingredients.
Dawn in Kyoto's Gion district brought an unexpected treasure – a glimpse of a real Geisha in full regalia. We then visited the Kiyomizu Temple, where afterwards we immersed ourselves in tradition through a hands-on matcha tea grinding and drinking ceremony, followed by a unique lunch where every dish featured matcha infusions.
The day's highlight was meeting the fourth-generation president of Gekkeikan Sake, touring their brewery, and securing exclusive bottles available only at the source. The experience culminated in being dressed in a traditional kimono, walking the historic streets, and capturing memories by the river.
Dotonbori's electric atmosphere set the stage for my most daring culinary experience – fugu (pufferfish) prepared three ways: raw, grilled, and fried (with the latter winning my palate). The evening concluded with spirited karaoke.
These delicate spheres of batter, stuffed with tender octopus and topped with dancing bonito flakes, were the perfect fuel for our upcoming castle adventure. After enjoying this beloved street food, we walked about a mile to the magnificent Himeji Castle, conquering its six stories of steep, narrow stairs – definitely earning our dinner!
After conquering Himeji Castle's six stories (quite the appetite builder!), we arrived in Hiroshima for a unique hands-on experience at Tagashira Green Tea Company. Under the guidance of the store’s staff, I crafted my own red bean-covered strawberry sweets and later sampled their signature green tea and a Matcha Latte at their chic café. Tagashira Green Tea Café is a modern café featuring innovative tea preparations and house-made sweets. Must-try: double-roasted green tea and sweetened Matcha Latte.
The solemnity of the Peace Memorial provided a thoughtful pause before dinner – a local's version of Hiroshima's famous Okonomiyaki. Away from the tourist spots, we feasted on massive grilled oysters, edamame, bean sprouts with grilled shrimp, grilled calamari and Okonomiyaki. A meal that showcased Hiroshima's seafood prowess.
My stay at the Grand Prince Hotel Hiroshima offered an unexpected brush with diplomatic history. The same venue hosted the 2023 G7 summit, where President Biden enjoyed the coveted top 2% of Hiroshima's Wagyu beef – a testament to the region's exceptional cattle-raising tradition.
A traditional Japanese breakfast of tofu, salmon, vegetables, rice, miso soup, and tea prepared us for exploring Miyajima. The unique dual aerial ropeway to Mt. Misen's peak (535 meters) rewarded us with breathtaking views of the Seto Inland Sea and Miyajima's primeval forest.
The UNESCO World Heritage Itsukushimajinja Shrine, dating back to 593, proved as impressive as its famous Otorii Gate standing in the sea. Lunch brought another local delicacy – Conger Eel – at a hidden gem restaurant, while friendly deer provided unexpected entertainment (and showed particular interest in my purse!). The restaurant seemed to be a family-run establishment near the shrine, specializing in locally-caught conger eel prepared using centuries-old techniques.
The final leg of my journey began in Kamakura's famous Komachi Street, where local shops offered everything from traditional crafts to modern Japanese treats. Lunch proved that even Japanese "fast food" can be a delightful experience - we dined at a modern conveyor-belt sushi restaurant where fresh plates arrived directly to our table via automated tracks, combining efficiency with excellent quality, a fitting reward after visiting the Great Buddha.
Our adventure continued to Enoshima Island, where we rode the "ESKA" (Enoshima Electric Railway) to the summit. At the top, we visited the historic Fujisawa Shrine, offering panoramic views of the coastline. The day culminated in an extraordinary dining experience - premium Wagyu beef prepared through theatrical tableside cooking, accompanied by seasonal vegetables. This luxurious dinner served as a perfect reward after our day of exploration.
My last day featured a fatty eel bento box lunch during a working business meeting and concluded at the renowned Matsubara-an, hidden in a quiet residential area. Their soba, prepared with local Kamakura ingredients, demonstrated why this former capital (1185-1333) remains a culinary destination.
The journey came full circle at Kamakura BENIYA, home of the famous Kurumicco Walnut Caramel Cookie – the same treat that drew those long lines at Daimaru. One bite of this luxurious creation – crunchy walnuts and house-made caramel sandwiched between buttery dough – explained the queues. Some things are worth waiting for.
Along Kamakura's scenic coastline, we were treated to a spectacular view of Mount Fuji rising majestically in the distance. The iconic Enoden train passed by as surfers caught waves along the shore, creating a perfect blend of traditional and modern Japanese coastal life.
Our journey concluded with a visit to the impressive Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine, Kamakura's most important Shinto shrine. For our farewell lunch, we dined at UMAI, savoring classic Japanese comfort food at its finest - crispy tonkatsu (fried pork cutlet) and ebi furai (fried shrimp), served with fresh shredded cabbage, steaming miso soup, and their special curry rice, all prepared in authentic Japanese style.
Day 1: Tokyo Orientation
Day 2: Osaka Introduction
Day 3: Kyoto Cultural Day
Day 4: Kyoto to Osaka
Day 5: Himeji & Hiroshima
Day 6: Hiroshima Exploration
Day 7: Miyajima Island
Day 8: Transit to Kamakura
Day 9: Kamakura Culture
Day 10: Final Tastes
Make restaurant reservations in advance
Consider seasonal specialties
Bring comfortable walking shoes
Learn basic Japanese dining phrases
Carry cash for smaller establishments
Check temple/shrine closing times
Book tea ceremony experiences ahead
